Wild West scene (free pattern)
I thought it would make for a nice change from the usual toys and amigurumi I usually post here to make a little piece of scenery. This was all triggered when I got obsessed with the chevron or wavy stitch (see earlier post here), which I initially practiced in some scrap sand-coloured yarn. Perfect for a little desert scene...
I've used cotton SMC Catania yarn, suitable for a 2.00-2.50mm hook for all elements.
R1. sc 6 in the magic ring (6)
R2. 2sc in every stitch (12)
R3-22. sc in every stitch (12)
Fasten off with a ss and leave a tail for sewing.
For the "arms", start a magic fing in green.
R1. sc 6 in the magic ring (6)
R2. 2sc in every 2nd stitch (9)
R3-6. sc in every stitch (9)
The next 5 steps will be crocheted in rows, not rounds.
R7. ch 1, turn, sc 5 (5)
R8. ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 3 (4)
R9. ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 2 (3)
R10. ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 1 (2)
R11. ch 1, turn, sc2tog (1)
The rest of the arm will be crocheted in rounds again.
R12. sc2 along the side of the flap you just made, sc 4 in the stitches of round 6, sc 2 along the sides again and finally sc 1 in the stitch of row 11 (9)
R13-14. sc in every stitch (9)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
This pattern makes the short arm (on the left in the picture). For the right arm, the steps are largely the same:
Start a magic ring in green.
R1. sc 6 in the magic ring (6)
R2. 2sc in every 2nd stitch (9)
R3-12. sc in every stitch (9)
R13. ch 1, turn, sc 5 (5)
R14. ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 3 (4)
R15. ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 2 (3)
R16. ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 1 (2)
R17. ch 1, turn, sc2tog (1)
R18. sc2 along the side of the flap you just made, sc 4 in the stitches
of round 6, sc 2 along the sides again and finally sc 1 in the stitch of
row 11 (9)
R19-20. sc in every stitch (9)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
You can arrange the arms any way you like. I sewed the short arm between rounds 8 and 11 and the big arm between rounds 13 and 16.
Cow skull:
Start a magic ring in white.
R1. sc 6 in the magic ring (6)
R2. 2sc in every stitch (12)
R3. sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, sc 4 (10)
R5. sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog, sc 3 (8)
R6. sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog, sc 2 (6)
R7. sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc (4)
Fasten off and weave the tail in the last 4 stitches and pull tight.
For the horns, ch 8 and ss in every stitch starting in the 2nd one from the hook (7). Make 2.
Pattern desert sand:
In light brown, ch a multiple of 12 + 3 (those last three are for turning the work, so make sure to ch these if you're using a single crochet foundating chain for the others) . This part of the pattern is crocheted in
rows.
Repeat row 2 until you have the desired length of your desert pattern.
R1.
dc into the 4th ch from the hook (skipped stitches count as 1 dc), then
repeat [dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc2tog, dc in the next 3 stitches,
2dc in the next 2 stitches] until the final ch in which you put 2 dc.
From now on, all rows are crocheted in BLO
R2.
ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in last dc of the previous row, then repeat
pattern [dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc2tog, dc in the next 3 stitches,
2dc in the next 2 stitches], 2dc in the turn ch of the previous row.
Tumble weed:
For the tumble weed, take any scraps of light brown yarn and soak them in a solution of PVA glue and water. This is my husband's secret recipe for attaching grass or mud details to his wargaming terrain. It's made by putting some PVA glue in a dish and carefully stirring in just enough water to give it the consistency of milk.
Take the yarn out of the glue mixture and let dry. When it's almost dry but still malleable, twist and shape the glue-soaked yarn in your hands (twisting motion as if you're making meatballs) into a tumble weed. Let dry completely.
ETA: my husband wants credit for suggesting I make a cow's skull. There you go.
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